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Editorial

Editorial – Bordeaux en primeur

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CONTENTS

Feature

Take 2: Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2008 Grand cru classé and Château Pichon-Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville 2008 cru classé en 1855, Pauillac

Château Pichon Comtesse and Château Pichon Baron were both once part of a larger estate. We compare these two wines, through their 2008 vintage, examining their common heritage, their taste, history, and evolution.

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Bordeaux: a chronicle of conquest, commerce and kings
The beginnings of the Bordeaux wine trade, and its connection to dynasties, politics and wealth in the Middle Ages
by Rod Phillips

Bordeaux’s rise to the status of an iconic wine region was a slow process that began by piggy-backing on the success of neighbouring regions and then employing restrictive commercial practices against the competition. But it was the popularity of Bordeaux wines among the ruling classes of England and other north European states that cemented its position in European markets. This article describes the beginnings of the Bordeaux wine trade, and its connection to dynasties, politics and wealth in the Middle Ages.

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Wine pricing – a quality price index

Using a simple formula of a wine’s score and its price it’s easy to pick out the wines which represent value for money in this Bordeaux 2011 vintage.

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The ‘second wines’ of Bordeaux Chateaux
by Jean-Marc Quarin

A number of Bordeaux’s so-called ‘second wines’ fail to live up to their billing: often too inconsistent even to dignify the name of their Appellations, frequently too dry to encourage their purchase, to cellar let alone to drink. These ‘second wines’ are a kind of subsidiary market destined for consumers who know little about wine but who are reassured by buying a wine associated with a known label.

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The river runs through it
A trip down the Gironde
by Catherine Taverny

With 60 Appellations (AOC) and more than 100,000 hectares of vines, the region of the Gironde (which includes Bordeaux) is the largest wine region in France. The Gironde estuary dominates the whole region affecting the climate, terroir and therefore its vintages. Much of the land occupied along the rivers – particularly the Gironde – are classified estates (under the 1855 Classification). The author, Catherine Taverny, and Simon, retired commercial fisherman and winemaker, take a trip on the estuary and discuss its future.

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Where’s the belief?
Do you have to be an anthroposophist in order to practice biodynamic viticulture?
by Claire Foster-Gilbert

Do you believe that people are capable of holding Christian values who aren’t Christians, any more than a bottle of sparkling wine from Australia can be Champagne? Whilst some do not believe God exists, they do think the Ten Commandments offer a pretty decent road map for social harmony. We are all flawed, but we are all capable of redemption by how we behave, not by doing things we think a “creator” might like enough to give us a pass into Paradise.

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The value of wine
Exploring the worth in a bottle
by Jarrett Leplin and Michael Zimmerman

Some wines are good, some are bad, and within both groups some are better than others. These facts are not fixed by one’s subjective experience, nor by one’s judgment. One may judge inferior a wine one nevertheless enjoys, as one may be moved by what one recognizes to be bad literature. One may judge inferior a wine that is superior; wines are misjudged. If quality were simply a function of one’s reactions, a fact only about oneself, the ritual would make no more sense than the Latin Mass without belief in God. That is, it wouldn’t make sense intellectually. It could still be performed for ancillary purposes; it could be a game.

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Landmarks

Architecture as <br />metaphor: the <br />winery at Château <br />Cheval Blanc<br /><h7>by Fabian Cobb</h7> Architecture as
metaphor: the
winery at Château
Cheval Blanc
by Fabian Cobb

The force of a wine comes in major part from the quality of the work done in the vineyard. If the vineyard represents 90% or more of the success of a vintage then clearly something else is at work in the creation of a structure which cost 13 million euros to build. But Bordeaux is full of symbols, the chateaux being the most obvious examples, which display their confidence and stories of success. The new winery at Cheval Blanc is not only fulfilling a role in communicating its place amongst the great wines of the region.

Business of wine

The cost of a bottle of wine

Ever wondered just what it costs to make a bottle of wine? This article looks at the relative costs which go into wine-making and determine the quality, and quantity of the wine produced.

Cycling

Cycling Bordeaux wine country
An independent traveller’s guide to cycling around the Châteaux of Bordeaux
by Tom Kevill-Davies

This article written by experienced cyclist and gastronome Tom Kevill Davies looks at the logistics, tips, clothing, and planning for such a trip. If you’re about to embark on a holiday near Bordeaux you won’t want to miss this practical guide.

Know-how

The digital grape<br /><h7>Precision Viticulture as a modern tool in vineyard management<br />by David R Green</h7> The digital grape
Precision Viticulture as a modern tool in vineyard management
by David R Green

A look into the modern technology which shapes the vineyard whilst helping to improve the quality of the wine.

Vintage

Bordeaux 2011:
the year of the terroir
by Fabian Cobb

Undeniably the weather plays a major role in deciding the quality of a vintage but what an examination of climatic factors won’t tell you is how a wine may taste. It won’t explain why one domain in a particular appellation mastered a difficult vintage whilst another produced coarse, dry wines. It won’t provide an answer
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General

What is ‘en primeur’?

All cha­teaux from the Bordeaux region now participate in what has become the wine world’s largest marketing opera­tion. Buyers, journalists, and overseas visitors travel to Bordeaux each year where a vast array of events and tastings take place to assess the vintage.

Food

Lamprey Bordelaise:
the nine-eyed monster
A macabre but true recipe

This is perhaps the most celebrated dish to come out of Bordeaux – with good reason. All of the major ingredients are sourced locally. This recipe uses the technique of ‘hypovolemia’ a somewhat uncommon culinary practise in a domestic kitchen.

Humour

Is ‘small’ really beautiful ?
by Thierry Mantoux

I have a ‘petit vin’ from a domaine, but be careful, not something well-known at all. I know the producer, he refuses to be in any guide, because you have to pay, and he just wants to be known by ‘word of mouth’. His Châteauneuf du Pape 2010 costs just 11euros a bottle. When you think of the price of other Châteauneuf often costing 40 to 100euros, it’s a bargain…

Profile

The appellation of
Listrac-Médoc

The recent purchases and refurbishment of properties in this small appellation make it one to notice. Often passed over, ironic given it is the highest appellation in the medoc (at a breathtaking 43 metres), the quality of the wines has been consistently improving and offer excellent value for money. In 2011 Listrac has produced some very good wines linked to theire soils which were better suited to withstand some of the climatic conditions prevailing during the year.

Champagne

Champagne: zero dosage
and extra brut

The dryer styles are all the rage. We look at the evolution of the style and some reasons for its production, along with tasting notes on more than 20 Champagnes.